By Suzanne Kapner
Americans are getting bigger, and retailers -- after years of
ignoring plus-size shoppers -- are starting to notice.
Chains including Nordstrom Inc. and Target Corp. are boosting
their plus-size offerings and displaying the clothing next to
standard sizes, breaking with a practice of segregating larger
sizes in a separate department often hidden away at the back of the
store. The chains are adding supersize mannequins, and some are
even showcasing plus-size models on their websites alongside the
usual waiflike figures.
Fashion has long cultivated a body image that was out of
alignment with most Americans. But the discrepancy is growing,
making it harder for retailers to ignore as they grapple with
rising competition from Amazon.com Inc. and other online retailers
that has cut into sales and led to the closure of hundreds of
stores.
More than 70% of U.S. adults age 20 and older were overweight or
obese as of 2014, according to government health statistics. That
compares with 66.5% a decade before. The mean waist size for
American women age 20 and older was 38 inches, according to the
data, which equates to a size 16 for most brands. Regular sizes
typically start at 2 and run through 12 with plus-sizes starting at
14.
Men are getting bigger, too. Target offers some Big & Tall
clothing for them next to regular sizes in select stores. And
Nordstrom is hoping to have a bigger selection of plus sizes for
men next year. But, for the most part, retailers are testing these
changes in their women's departments.
Nordstrom is adding larger sizes from 100 brands, many of which
previously had not made plus-size clothing, including Italian
luxury brand Gucci. The extended sizes will be available online and
in 30 stores, alongside the regular-size clothing for each brand,
and displayed on mannequins ranging in size from 2 to 18.
Target by year-end will carry plus-size swimsuits, athletic gear
and lingerie next to regular-size items in those categories in 300
stores, up from about 150 stores currently. More than 1,000
locations will have mannequins spanning size 4 to 22.
Outdoor chain REI increased its plus-size offerings by 50%
during the past year. Sixteen of its 153 stores now display larger
sizes next to regular-size parkas and other gear.
"There weren't many outdoor brands that made larger sizes," said
Michele Orr, REI's general merchandise manager of apparel. "We had
to convince them by explaining the business opportunity."
The moves are a departure for an industry that plus-size
shoppers say makes them feel like second-class citizens.
"Plus-size clothes are often at the back of the store, the
departments aren't well stocked and the experience is so
uninviting," said Amanda Gilliam, a college-admissions consultant
in Somerset, N.J. "It's very shortsighted of brands not to make
plus-sizes. They are missing out on so many people who are prepared
to spend money."
Some brands have shied away from manufacturing larger sizes
because of the expense and complication of getting the clothes to
fit. In standard clothing, the length and width increase
proportionally for each successive size, according to industry
executives.
In plus-sizes, the width increases more than the length,
requiring manufactures to create new fit patterns, which is costly.
Larger sizes also require additional fabric, which adds another
layer of expense, though clothing producers often pass many of
these costs on to consumers.
"There are costs associated with having extended sizes and lots
of brands just aren't interested," said Emma Grede, who with Kloé
Kardashian founded Good American, a denim and T-shirt brand that
runs the size gamut from 00 to 24.
Nordstrom began carrying Good American in October and noticed
that 16 and 18 were among the best-selling sizes. Most of the other
denim brands Nordstrom sells didn't make jeans in those sizes, so
it asked them to expand their range, according to Tricia Smith,
Nordstrom's general-merchandise manager of women's apparel. Soon,
it had enlisted other brands, including Rag & Bone and Theory,
which added sizes 14 and 16.
Nordstrom is adding sizes at the lower end too, down to 00. And
like Target, it isn't eliminating its plus-size departments, though
that is something Ms. Smith said she would consider if she could
get enough brands to produce larger-size clothes.
"There is still a lot of work to be done," she said. For
instance, the larger-size mannequins had to be custom made because
the standard mannequin size is a 2.
Not all plus-size shoppers want their clothes integrated with
regular sizes.
"I'd prefer to have a separate department, because it makes it
easier to find what I'm looking for," said Veronica Miranda, who
lives in San Francisco and is studying early-childhood education.
She said she would welcome any moves that added more stylish
clothing in her size. "It's really hard to find current styles,"
she added.
With the pickings slim, some retailers have begun producing the
clothes themselves. Target introduced Ava & Viv in 2015, an
in-house plus-size brand whose spring lineup includes off-the
shoulder tops and floral dresses. Since then, it has increased its
private-label plus-size offerings by 50% with the launch of new
lines that sell both large and regular sizes, according to a
spokeswoman.
REI started working with outdoor brand Kühl to produce plus
sizes about a year ago. The brand previously hadn't made plus-size
clothing, but added sizes up to XXXL. It also began buying
plus-size performance apparel from Shebeest and other brands.
To lend authenticity to its marketing, the company reached out
to plus-size influencers such as Jenny Bruso, who writes a blog.
REI sponsors some of her blog posts and group hikes that she hosts
around Portland, Ore.
Ms. Bruso said she started hiking six years ago, but had trouble
finding the appropriate wardrobe.
"The outdoor brands weren't making plus-size clothes, or else
they were matronly and unflattering," Ms. Bruso said. "Or, they
were only available online, which sends the message that they don't
want us shopping in their stores."
Write to Suzanne Kapner at Suzanne.Kapner@wsj.com
(END) Dow Jones Newswires
May 08, 2018 09:14 ET (13:14 GMT)
Copyright (c) 2018 Dow Jones & Company, Inc.
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