Coach's Iconic Handbags Become Victims Of The Recession
January 21 2009 - 1:38PM
Dow Jones News
The recession has hit Coach Inc. (COH), with the retailer
planning to offer its iconic handbags at lower prices.
Coach also will slow the pace of its share-repurchase
program.
Trying to appeal to "a much more price-sensitive consumer,"
Coach is reducing prices 10% to 15% for handbags and small leather
goods that it is stocking on shelves, said Chief Executive Lew
Frankfort in a call with analysts after the retailer posted a 14%
drop in fiscal second-quarter net income amid weak sales and
margins.
The goal is to sell handbags below $300 by working with vendors
to produce the same quality, but bring down costs and pass that
savings along to consumers.
"What we want to do is become even more affordable than we have
been," Frankfort said.
For Coach, bags and leather goods account for about 85% of
annual revenue. The company reported that bag sales fell 6% across
all channels in North America.
Coach sells through its own stores as well as department stores
ranging from Saks Inc. (SKS) and Nordstrom Inc. (JWN) to Dillard's
Inc. (DDS) and Macy's Inc. (M).
Coach's plan to sell bags at lower prices is part of its effort
to negotiate between steep discounting that can be especially
hurtful to upper-end retailers and selling goods with cachet that
customers feel are too costly.
Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. (RL) is another in the upper end that
feels strongly about maintaining its pricing strategy.
"At our company the brand is paramount and we will do nothing to
compromise that," said Polo Ralph Lauren President Roger Farah at
last week's meeting of the National Retail Federation.
But the success of the approach is questionable right now, based
on how higher-end retailers have been faring.
Beyond the deteriorating retail environment, "we would
attributed relative weakness in traffic and conversion to our
deliberate decision not to engage in discounting when virtually the
entire mall was on sale," Frankfort said.
Coach had issued a negative preannouncement before Wednesday's
earnings release. So too have Tiffany Inc. (TIF), Nordstrom and
Estee Lauder Cos. (EL).
Seeing "an on-going shift in consumer spending from aspirational
to desperational," Goldman Sachs on Tuesday cut shares of Polo
Ralph Lauren to sell from neutral, saying that it felt the company
will be the next in its peer group to issue a negative
preannouncement.
Unlike upper-end retailers, including Saks and Neiman Marcus
Group (NMGA), Coach executives indicated during the call that the
company doesn't have plans for corporate headcount reductions.
Frankfort said Coach "is operating from a position of strength.
We have made and will continue to make good sound business
decisions to position us for profitable growth in the years
ahead."
Post-Christmas business has even shown some signs of
"stabilizing," Frankfort said. "Unlike our second quarter, where we
indicated we saw a worsening situation throughout, that
deterioration has not continued into the third quarter."
Coach also said it feels that when the retail market stabilizes,
the handbag category will grow relative to apparel and see a larger
share of consumers' wardrobe spending.
But Coach remains cautious. Coach has cut planned store openings
to 20 from an initial 40 projection. The company also isn't
expanding existing stores, Frankfort said.
And, Coach is slowing the pace - not suspending - its
stock-repurchase program, he said.
-By Karen Talley, Dow Jones Newswires; 201-938-5106;
karen.talley@dowjones.com
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