CEO also bets smartphones will fade; meanwhile, his sales are
down
By Khadeeja Safdar
This article is being republished as part of our daily
reproduction of WSJ.com articles that also appeared in the U.S.
print edition of The Wall Street Journal (February 6, 2018).
COLUMBUS, Ohio -- Leslie Wexner strode into the Victoria's
Secret store in his favorite mall here, a man in his element. Music
pulsed, and around him were the fruits of a two-year revamp.
Sports bras had crowded out swimsuits. Comfy pajamas jockeyed
with lacy lingerie for prime display space. A wall-size TV screen
displayed strutting supermodels, a signal to the investors gathered
there that the chain hadn't lost its taste for sexy theatrics.
Then the questions started: What about declining mall traffic?
Where do you see online sales? Why aren't you investing more in
digital?
"I get that," retorted the chief executive, 80 years old. "Now
explain to me Sephora and Apple," two companies that have opened
successful physical stores recently.
Mr. Wexner, an icon of 20th-century retailing, is the last man
standing from a generation of merchants who brought fashion to the
masses through hundreds of chain stores in thousands of malls. Most
retailers say the internet has forever changed shopping. Mr. Wexner
doesn't.
The internet won't kill stores, the Columbus-based billionaire
says. Moreover, the fascination with smartphones will fade. "We're
in the process of bouncing back from that," he says in an
interview. "I don't think this is a new norm."
People crave social interaction and will seek it at places like
malls. "There are times when that gets interrupted, but people want
to be with other people," he says. "I've got 5,000 years of history
on my side," pointing to the ancient shopping bazaars in Rome and
Istanbul.
Other certainties have been proven wrong, he argues. Frozen food
didn't wipe out restaurants. Landline phones didn't end
face-to-face conversations.
American retailers just finished one of their toughest years on
record. More than 6,000 closures were announced, surpassing the
number during the 2008 recession. At least 50 retailers filed for
bankruptcy, including Gymboree Corp., Payless ShoeSource Inc. and
Toys 'R' Us Inc.
Mr. Wexner's company, L Brands Inc., has struggled with falling
sales, too. The company, which also owns the teen brand Pink and
the Bath & Body Works chain, recently disappointed investors
when it revealed weak holiday results. Same-store sales are
expected to fall for 2017, snapping a streak of seven years of
growth. After peaking near $100 in late 2015, L Brands' share price
has fallen 50%, erasing about $14 billion in investors' wealth.
"The struggle that they have is a cultural one," says William
McComb, former CEO of Liz Claiborne and an investor in online
lingerie rival ThirdLove. "Their entire culture is to be a slave to
the physical store."
Mr. Wexner, who has been CEO of Victoria's Secret's parent
company since 1963 and has no plans to retire, has been revamping
the brand over the past two years, slashing the $500 million swim
business, jobs and its famous catalog. Missing from the chopping
block: brick-and-mortar stores.
L Brands has actually increased its store count over the past
two years, leaving it with about 3,000 locations in North America,
nearly half in second- and third-tier malls that are struggling to
attract shoppers. It has more stores on the continent than Gap
Inc., which has closed hundreds of Gap and Banana Republic stores,
and almost 10 times as many as Lululemon Athletica Inc., which has
about 350.
Mickey Drexler, chairman of J. Crew Group Inc. who stepped down
as its CEO last summer, once shared Mr. Wexner's perspective. "I
used to call shopping centers the local villages," he said at a
media conference in November. That's no longer the case. "You don't
have to go to the village to see other people if you are on your
device, because that's the new way of meeting and seeing and having
relationships."
Mr. Wexner says women want to come to Victoria's Secret stores
to experience the environment and feel the products, because
lingerie and beauty items, such as fragrances and lotions, are more
personal to them than clothing.
Roughly 20% of sales for Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body
Works are online, and Mr. Wexner says he expects that level to
remain stable, even in another 10 years. "If the store environment
is exciting," he says, "I'm convinced people want to go to the
store."
The company has been putting more than 70% of its investments
into opening and remodeling stores. Mr. Wexner stays involved in
the minutiae, such as the placement of a flat-screen TV to
broadcast fashion shows in the bathroom and the choice of wallpaper
in the dressing room stalls. "It's about creating an atmosphere,"
he says.
Lingerie has been protected somewhat from online sales because
fit and comfort can be hard to assess on a phone or computer
screen. But fashion's shift toward garments with simpler sizing --
such as sports bras and bralettes -- plus lenient return policies
have made it more viable for online sellers. With no costs for
physical stores, rivals can offer lower prices.
There have been 34 funding rounds for U.S. lingerie startups
from venture capitalists in the past five years, compared with
seven deals in the preceding five years, according to Dow Jones
VentureSource. Last year, Amazon.com Inc. launched its own line of
bras priced under $10.
"With social media, we brought together a community of women
very quickly," says Michelle Grant, a former Victoria's Secret
employee, who launched New York-based online lingerie startup
Lively in 2016. "It wouldn't have been possible 10 years ago."
Some of the online entrants are even more specialized than Mr.
Wexner's stores. Lively, for example, focuses on just
athleisure-inspired lingerie.
For a man who runs a company known for its eye-catching
marketing, Mr. Wexner avoids the spotlight. A tastemaker for
decades, he can be seen dressed in a simple dress shirt, tie and
zippered vest. He may think smartphones have peaked, but he carries
two and wears an Apple Watch with an Hermès wristband.
The Dayton, Ohio, native got his start in retail working at his
parents' clothing shop. He opened his first store, The Limited, in
1963, with a $5,000 loan from his aunt. Upending the
department-store model, he sold a limited selection of styles under
his own label. He expanded quickly, and by the 1970s, he was on his
way to building a national chain.
Over the next few years, he added other brands, including
Abercrombie, Lane Bryant and Express, transforming many of them
into mega-chains. He later sold off the clothing brands --
"Conventional apparel just wasn't nearly as exciting as it used to
be," he says.
He kept Victoria's Secret, originally consisting of six stores
and a catalog, which he purchased in 1982 for about $1 million.
Today, Victoria's Secret is the leader with over 30% of the U.S.
market for women's underwear, nearly six times the share of the
next closest rival.
Mr. Wexner's forte has been to develop tightly focused product
lines and carefully designed stores, and then to replicate the
concept in malls across America.
"He could open 50 to 100 stores in a year and blow out a concept
fast," says Rick Amari, founder of retail consultancy Columbus
Consulting, who previously worked at Victoria's Secret. "He had
these visions and could execute on them with laser focus."
According to Mr. Wexner, fashion brands become obsolete because
the products they sell aren't compelling, or the atmosphere of the
store isn't enticing. He believes clothing chains are hurting
because they haven't fundamentally changed what they sell, not
because of Amazon or declining mall traffic. "It's the merchandise,
stupid," he often tells people.
L Brands' same-store sales grew between 2009 and 2016, but Mr.
Wexner was concerned that the company had become increasingly
dependent on promotions to draw shoppers to stores. Victoria's
Secret's beauty and lingerie businesses were losing steam, and its
customers were getting older.
In 2016, he parted ways with Sharen Turney, who had served as
CEO of Victoria's Secret for 10 years, and assumed control of the
business. The company warned that sales would drop as Mr. Wexner
made changes. Quarterly same-store sales and profit started
falling.
Shortly after Victoria's Secret aired its annual swimsuit
special on TV that year, with dozens of supermodels on the island
of St. Barts, he eliminated the entire category. Swimwear generated
revenue, but Mr. Wexner thought he could drive more traffic to his
stores with sports bras and yoga pants, which are sold year-round.
Ads started running with supermodels showing off their exercise
routines.
He admits he didn't anticipate the athleisure trend, one of the
most popular since the heyday of denim. "I didn't see Nike and
Under Armour," he says, "and I didn't see Lululemon."
Later in 2016, he hired Jan Singer, a former Nike Inc.
executive, to lead the Victoria's Secret lingerie division. He had
her work at a Victoria's Secret store for the first two months,
sizing women who were looking for undergarments, and then report
observations back to Mr. Wexner and her staff. "As Les always says,
the answer is in the store," says Ms. Singer.
These days, Ms. Singer and other executives are in a jet at
least once a week visiting stores. They are encouraged to drop in
to other retailers like Lululemon and Apple and learn about their
products and stores. Mr. Wexner himself is a big product tester.
His conference room in Columbus has hundreds of bottles of lotions
and fragrances, many of them from competitors.
In September, Mr. Wexner told investors at a private meeting
that he is more optimistic about Victoria's Secret than he has been
in years. He had the same message for investors and analysts
gathered at the event in Columbus two months later, stating: "It's
never been better in retail."
He says problems in the industry are largely limited to clothing
chains and department stores -- which he predicted would decline
years ago. "Everybody laughed," he recalls when in 1989 at a
shopping center conference he pronounced the demise of the
department-store model. Mall developers told him, "you're
completely crazy."
Efforts in the store are lost on shoppers like Miku Konsolas,
who says she has no way of knowing if Victoria's Secret is getting
better because she rarely visits stores. The only reason the
28-year-old, a sales engineer in San Francisco, set foot inside a
mall in recent memory was to process a quick exchange for an online
order. On a website, she can "see all the inventory at once," she
says.
In December, store-only sales at Victoria's Secret dropped 6%.
Executives say the company's profits were hurt by heavy
promotions.
"They likely need to close more of their stores over time," says
David Berman, founder of Durban Capital, a hedge fund focused on
retailers that is avoiding L Brands. "It is one of the best run
retailers, but they are fighting against the tide."
Some investors are trying to profit by betting against Mr.
Wexner, believing that his commitment to stores and malls is
starting to hurt the business -- 6.9% of shares outstanding are
sold short, held by investors betting they will decline in
value.
Others are keeping faith in Mr. Wexner, the longest serving CEO
of an S&P 500 company. "He's the straw that stirs the drink,"
says Michael Goody, a senior analyst at Scharf Investments, which
owns about 3.8 million shares of L Brands. "This is in his
blood."
Late on a Tuesday night, Mr. Wexner looped his Chevy Volt around
the fountain in the middle of Easton Town Center, the open-air
shopping center he helped design nearly 20 years ago.
The mall is just five minutes from his office, and he comes here
often, parking in front of Victoria's Secret. "Humans are
fundamentally pack animals," he says. "It hasn't changed for
thousands of years."
Write to Khadeeja Safdar at khadeeja.safdar@wsj.com
(END) Dow Jones Newswires
February 06, 2018 02:47 ET (07:47 GMT)
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