By Kathy Chu
After years of flooding luxury stores from New York to Paris to
snap up handbags and watches, Chinese consumers are shopping more
at home.
High-end names such as Cie. Financière Richemont, Burberry Group
PLC and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton are experiencing a surge
in sales in mainland China as the government taxes overseas
purchases and some luxury brands lower prices in China to bring
them closer to those elsewhere.
The yuan's depreciation and recent terrorist attacks in Europe
are also deterring Chinese from traveling internationally, boosting
luxury purchases on the mainland, some analysts say.
The shift in spending by the Chinese, the world's top buyers of
high-end goods, is an opportunity for luxury brands on the mainland
but also a risk to their business elsewhere in the $267 billion
personal luxury-goods industry.
Beijing has taken steps in recent years to bring
consumption--and tax revenue--back to China. In 2015 and again in
early 2016, the government cut import duties on products including
cosmetics, shoes and clothing. And in April last year, China raised
taxes on overseas purchases; rates vary depending on the type and
value of the goods, but the tax applies to foreign goods bought
online as well as those carried into China.
"The price difference has narrowed," said Qi Fei, who bought an
Yves Saint Laurent handbag in an upscale Beijing mall recently for
about $1,600, around the same price she could buy it abroad. "The
advantages of luxury stores in China are becoming more and more
obvious." Purchasing goods within China simplifies after-sales
services such as warranty and repair, the 27-year-old said.
In constant dollars, sales of personal luxury goods in mainland
China rose 4% in 2016 and will increase at an even faster pace this
year, predicts Bruno Lannes, a Shanghai-based partner at consulting
firm Bain & Co. Those sales slipped slightly in 2016 using
annual average exchange rates. At the same time, Chinese spending
on luxury goods world-wide, including China, fell for the first
time in 2016, at both annual average and constant exchange rates,
amid a multiyear crackdown on corruption by the Chinese
government.
"What you had is a repatriation of Chinese consumption toward
mainland China," said Bernard Arnault, chief executive of LVMH, in
late January, as sales there surged in the second half of 2016.
Richemont reported in January that mainland China and South
Korea helped to boost its Asia-Pacific sales by 10% in the third
quarter, double its overall sales growth rate. The company's
jewelry, watch and accessory brands include Dunhill and
Cartier.
Richemont, whose profit and sales plunged in the first half of
the year, has credited some of its growth in mainland China to what
it calls a "fair pricing policy" initiated in 2015, in which it
prices products in the same range world-wide, before accounting for
local taxes and duties.
Chanel, which in 2015 became one of the first luxury brands to
make prices the same around the world, said its policy improves the
brand's consistency, spreads out sales between countries and deters
gray-market goods, which are bought at cheaper prices in one
country then sold without the brand's approval in another. A Chanel
lambskin handbag from the brand's current collection is listed on
its website for the same price globally: $4,700.
Pricing disparities remain, though. A study by consulting firm
L2 Inc. in mid-2016 found that customers in China still pay 25%
more for Louis Vuitton than elsewhere in the world. LVMH declined
to comment.
Richemont's Chloe prices a suede calfskin bag at about 14,000
yuan (about $2,035) in China, nearly a third higher than its price
in the U.K., 9% higher than in Japan and 5% more than the U.S. at
current exchange rates. Chloe declined to comment.
U.K.-based Burberry, whose mainland China sales increased by a
high-single-digit percentage in its fiscal third quarter, said last
month that it adjusted prices in November in Hong Kong and mainland
China, where it aims to keep prices within 15% of those at
home.
"Luxury brands are trying to balance their pricing to maximize
what they can get from the Chinese consumer," said Danielle Bailey,
head of research in the Asia-Pacific region for L2.
Many brands overexpanded in mainland China in recent years and
some have closed stores since then or scrapped plans to open new
ones due to weak demand. But the pickup in spending, if it
continues, could lead high-end names to consider reinvesting on the
mainland, said Luca Solca, head of luxury goods at Exane BNP
Paribas.
While the Chinese stock and real-estate markets are recovering,
boosting consumer confidence, some analysts and company executives
say it's unlikely that China's economy will return to double-digit
growth rates. The economy grew 6.7% last year, according to
official data.
In October, as LVMH reported that purchases by Chinese nationals
on the mainland and elsewhere boosted year-to-date sales growth,
Chief Financial Officer Jean-Jacques Guiony warned that stronger
spending by the Chinese could be short-lived.
While disposable income is expected to grow in China, not
everyone will be able to travel, making it important for luxury
brands to be able to attract Chinese shoppers in their home
country, said Andrea Casavecchia, the head of Asia for Italian
luxury shoemaker Santoni.
"China is a challenging market, but it's the future," said Mr.
Casavecchia, who expects mainland China to become Santoni's
second-largest foreign market after the U.S. by 2020. "China is the
golden land."
Pei Li and Eleanor Warnock contributed to this article.
Write to Kathy Chu at kathy.chu@wsj.com
(END) Dow Jones Newswires
February 05, 2017 08:44 ET (13:44 GMT)
Copyright (c) 2017 Dow Jones & Company, Inc.